The only thing better than getting backstage access during Fashion Week is a master class with the lead makeup artist, where you learn how to recreate the runway looks step by step. Makeup mastermind Diane Kendal did just that, and led a master class to share the complete behind the scenes scoop on Tom Ford’s AW19 runway show during New York Fashion Week. A diffused smokey eye with dewy skin and muted lips defined the look, and Ford said the vibe was inspired by the softer tones of living in Los Angeles. Kendal has been working with Ford since his Gucci days in the early 90s, along with plenty of other bold-faced names in the fashion world. As she recreated the runway look, she shared plenty of other beauty wisdom on…
…Getting a dewy glow. “The secret is always to prep the skin with a really good moisturizer,” Kendal says. “The Traceless Foundation that Tom does is actually really good at achieving that gorgeous dewy look. The secret is not to put too much powder, which is what I did for the show. Just powder down the T-zone and then the rest of the face is quite dewy and that’s your natural highlight.
…Contouring the right way. “I love contouring and highlighting, but I like it done in a way that enhances you rather than painting your face on,” she says. Kendal contours cheekbones by starting at the outside of the face and working her way in because it looks more natural that way. “You can feel where the natural bone is and bring it down.”
…Using the best eye pencil. Kendal’s go-to is a kohl pencil. “I really love the kohl pencils because if you want to do yourself a quick little eye, apply it in the crease and blend it out with your fingers, and you’ve got a nice, easy smokey eye. Line the lid very close to the lashes. Kohl pencils give a really great base for when you apply metallic shadow.”
…Investing time in your skin. If you’re going to spend more time on one thing in your beauty routine, Kendal recommends making it your skin. “I like to use rosewater, a nice moisturizer, and then foundation,” she says. “Sometimes people get a bit obsessed with full coverage foundation, or even contouring, and I think it’s about creating a beautiful look without it overtaking your whole face—you still look you. I definitely think the foundation is a must-have because that if you don’t have a good base, then you don’t have great makeup. You can have an amazing base and then you’re done.”
…Remembering less is more. That’s Kendal’s philosophy when it comes to makeup. “I think it’s a modern approach to focus on one feature. That’s Tom’s vision too, to do one look but keep the rest of the face minimal. Just take away the lips and it makes you look modern and bold.”
…Embracing the one makeup trend that will never go out of style. “The no makeup-makeup look will never go out because that is all about enhancing your beauty and emphasizing the features that you like. I think that will always be relevant.”
…Avoiding the most common brow mistake. That would be using the wrong color brow pencil and making brows too heavy by using too much product. “It’s nice to build a brow, but make them look natural,” she says. “With Tom’s pencil, eyebrows still look natural and soft. I always like a full brow.”
And now, you’re probably wondering how you can get the look from the Tom Ford A/W19 runway show. Kendal breaks it down:
Step 1: Apply the Traceless Stick Foundation to even out skin tone for a flawless complexion.
Step 2: Using Shade and Illuminate, draw light onto the skin to brighten and lift with the light shade, and use the dark shade to define and contour your natural bone structure.
Step 3: Shape a natural square of the eyebrows at the beginning of brows with Brow Sculptor in 04 Espresso. Brush up and lengthen the brow at the end with natural strokes to sculpt, add strength and frame the face.
Step 4: Line the upper and lower lash line and the crease with Eye Kohl Intense in 01 Espresso. Blend softly to emphasize the ends of the eyes.
Step 5: Add a fine liquid line with Eye Defining Pen in 01 Deeper to upper and lower lash lines with a small flick at the end.
Step 6: For fairer skin tones, using the Eye Color Quad in 03 Nude Dip, apply the deep gray shade on the crease and lower lash line. Apply the pale pink shade on the eyelid. Blend the pale ivory shade on the brow bone and tear duct. Or, for darker skin tones, take Eye Color Quad in 03 Nude Dip and use the deep gray shade of 03 nude dip on the crease and lower lash line. Apply the deep bronze shade on the eyelid. Blend the deepest shade from 13 orchid haze on the brow bone and tear duct.
Step 7: Create seductive eyes with multiple coats of Extreme Mascara in 01 Raven on the upper and lower lashes.
Step 8: Apply Lip Lacquer Luxe Matte in 01 Darling, a rich, soft-matte nude liquid lipstick that coats lips with barely-there nude yet full-coverage color.
Step 9: Lightly brush a touch of Cheek Color in 06 Inhibition upwards along the cheekbone.
Step 10: Paint Nail Lacquer in 02 Toasted Sugar on nails to match the modernist approach to lips and skin.
Step 11: As the final touch, apply the Traceless Touch Foundation SPF 45/Pa++++ Satin-Matte Cushion Compact to even skin tone. Reapply the cushion compact foundation as needed.